Rust Tips

Saving any rust tips I find here.

  • If you are not using key bindings, you are likely tiring out your pinky for no valid reason. I don’t ever hold down my mouse when chopping trees or mining nodes, or running or crouching for that matter. I just press Z, Q or C. Seriously, you must use these:
  • Other people can repair your base. Walls that have been damaged cannot be repaired for 30 seconds. If you’re trying to pick axe a wall inside your base in order to remove it, and an enemy wants to ruin your day, they can repair it back to full health if you wait too long between strikes… so make sure to craft all your pick axes at once and pick away at it until completion.
  • By the way, it takes 7 metal pick axes to take out a stone wall from the inside (the lighter side) and 3 metal pick axes for a wood wall from the inside. Don’t even bother with the exteriors of these walls. Doing so would take forever and you will get killed in the mean time.
  • Wooden door raiding is possible with a shotgun and handmade shells. If you see some bases that still have wooden doors and you think the interior doors are also wooden then give it a shot. It is loud and may take some time (about 45 shots with basic handmade shells and a waterpipe shotgun) but I’ve collected a ton of good loot from these. If you want to up the ante, try to research a double barelled shot gun with incendiary shells (requires 275 scrap in all, a level 2 workbench, and of course the items themselves to deposit into your research table). It only requires 16 incendiary shells to take out a wooden door, which is probably easier than finding a flamethrower these days. The other day I got an SMG, Python Revolver and a shit ton of materials. Well worth it.
  • Your tool cupboard can store a lot more than just the wood, metal and stone you need for upkeep. You can put all your crafting resources in it. Good to know when just starting out. I used to think I had to craft a bunch of boxes to get going but you can store leather, cloth, low grade fuel, sulfur, coal, bone, high quality metal, animal fat, etc. I just learned this by accident. This saves a lot of space when you’re just starting out.
  • Wooden key locks don’t actually require a key, unless you want to share access with a friend who did not craft the lock. Just apply the lock and lock it (by holding E and selecting “Lock”). This was a recent change that made it a lot easier for solo players to get going. I used to hide in my base scared shitless, waiting for things to quiet down before attempting to collect enough metal to build a code lock so I wouldn’t lose my base every time I left to collect resources. What a welcome change.
  • If you have the repair hammer equipped then you can pick up the following items by holding E and selecting “Pick Up”: rugs, wooden signs, window bars, boxes (small and large), traps (fire, shot gun, bear), barricades, lanterns, lamps, lights, spinning wheels, beds (not sleeping bags—you can always pick those up), research tables, repair benches, bear rugs… I may be missing some, but you can pick up most deployables or decorations. NOT campfires though. Weird.
  • Set up your first base as close to a mining outpost, gas station or supermarket as you can. The recyclers there will be very important for collecting scrap early on. You’ll need quite a bit of scrap to acquire work benches and to research your first guns. Feel free to move toward the interior later. If you’re really good at PVP then build around a power plant or The Dome. They don’t have radiation for the most part and the loot is superior, but of course this also attracts the better players on the server.

To use these simply press “F1” to bring up the console and type them in like this. Make sure to type “writecfg” without quotes to save them. Going into options and clicking Input’s “Reset to Default” appears to clear the binds.


Here’s a few of my favorites, changing the letter lets you use a different key:


Press Q to auto-run, press Shift and W to cancel.
bind q forward;sprint


Press Z to permanently crouch and auto-attack, press Left Click and Control to cancel.
bind z attack;duck


Hold Z to crouch and auto-attack (only while pressed.)

bind z +attack;+duck


Press C to permanently crouch, press Control to cancel.

bind c duck



Here’s a list of available binds. From what I can tell the “+” only allows it to fire once while no + will continually perform the action.

bind f1 consoletoggle
bind backquote consoletoggle
bind f7 bugreporter
bind w +forward
bind s +backward
bind a +left
bind d +right
bind mouse0 +attack
bind mouse1 +attack2
bind mouse2 +attack3
bind 1 +slot1
bind 2 +slot2
bind 3 +slot3
bind 4 +slot4
bind 5 +slot5
bind 6 +slot6
bind 7 +slot7
bind 8 +slot8
bind leftshift +sprint
bind rightshift +sprint
bind leftalt +altlook
bind r +reload
bind space +jump
bind leftcontrol +duck
bind e +use
bind v +voice
bind t
bind mousewheelup +invnext
bind mousewheeldown +invprev
bind tab inventory.toggle

  • Base building videos do help, if you suck at building watch some of these they do help.
  • Shops are helpful and cheap. You can ask for whatever you want, but scrap is usually what I ask for since I just farm at night. Personal preference
  • Try out different playstyles. Sometimes I’ll roll with your traditional gun / meds / ammo. However, I’ve grown to roll with some landmines and try to agro 3+. It’s unexpected and mines have AoE damage.
  • With the BP update, I’d recommend building next to a rad town since scrap is a must and stay away from Launch Site. (depending on your server pop) I started off building next to gas stations but there’s little room for cover, I would suggest power plant as there’s more room to run or fight.
  • Make more than 1 sleeping bag for your area. I always make a circle of sleeping bags around my main base, hiding them as best as I can. I also code them with #’s so I understand what bag I’m at and most people won’t rename my bag.
  • Pick your fights. As a solo you can only loot so much. If you can’t loot it all make a box / stash nearby hidden and try to get it but this is very risky.
  • Try to befriend your neighbors. Especially with BP’s you may get protection, get good BP’s or make a friend.
  • I like to make another base for public use to try and make friends for various reasons. I’ll make a base with fences, that people can use furnaces, research table, campfire, repair bench, you know the drill but protected so jerks can’t destroy it. Some wipes I do it to be friendly, sometimes I do it to bait people.
  • Careful fighting close to home. You don’t want aggro from groups
  • Starting out, you can recycle for metal frags to get a code lock, or use a stash. I prefer the stash only because I play on 300+ pop servers so it depends on your server pop.
  • Get that airlock ASAP
  • Find a gun you’re good with, maybe something inexpensive like a crossbow / waterpipe combo.
  • I build 1×1 near main base with a set of guns and gear, to try and counter raid if you’re getting attacked.
  • I play on heavy pop servers, so if you can farm at night when most are asleep.
  • As a solo player, we don’t usually see end-game stuff depending on how frequent wipes are. I personally do 2x servers just because I feel like my odds are slightly better (personal preference of course)

If predominately vertical:

  • 45 degrees of visibility directly down to defend against door campers or anyone crouched beside the first level tower walls.
  • Slanted roof tiles atop the tower for crouch sniping as well as some combination of door ways, partially obstructed windows (rugs, etc.) or embrasures for sniping.
  • Disconnected, airlocked vertical sections for ascending/descending (as opposed to one central column or chamber for going up/down) with separate high ceiling one tile elevator-style shafts for rapid descent and counter-attack during raids.

If predominately horizontal:

  • Extra honeycomb.
  • Plan for roof campers on your roof, both friend and foe.
  • Consider building against a rock face or in a valley. Use the terrain to make your base look smaller and less attractive to raiders.

If either, neither or both:

  • Buy Fortify. It’s cheap and handy for base planning.
  • Leverage angle deltas between diamond and square shapes for 3.0 stacking. It’s the new double wall. That’ll be 22 Satchels per tile per layer, please.
  • Twig roof tiles in hallways. Roof tiles with enclosed twig right angle blocks, when broken, cause the roof tiles to collapse on the hallway and trap anyone behind you.
  • Utilize half walls with three half walls per level. This gives you space to mount shotgun traps above interior doorframes. You can also place floors every half level and force people to crawl around.
  • A minimum of one level of crawl space as a vertical honeycomb layer if the ceiling is accessible or can be made accessible to raiders.
  • Leave any interior key infrastructure as twig. You can combine this with the aforementioned crawlspace to make stability traps that will place raiders in a section of the base sealed off from normal use to prevent accidental friendly fire in the case of snap traps.
  • Use no fewer than three PIN codes. One for the front door, one for the Tool Cabinet and one for the second door (airlock) and everything else.
  • Keep furnaces empty when not in use with a wooden hammer nearby for rapid pickup if you are online while you are being raised.
  • Build a separate, smaller base with a bed or lots of sleeping bags to provide overwatch for your main base. Keep a small chest of bare essentials that can be used if you need to counter raid. Ideally, you should have no less than three sleeping bags in any base or area where you plan to spend a lot of your time, comprised of (1) an interior spawn point, (2) an exterior spawn point and (3) an overwatch/counter spawn point. They should be named intelligently (map coordinates and their function should do the trick). Keep this base stocked with some flares. Throw them if your main is raided to draw more attention to the area. If no one new runs to investigate, you’ve put the enemy raiding your base on edge or slowed them down in the worst case scenario. Best case scenario, you will have counter raiders – mercenarial vultures that will kill your raiders for you.
  • Ladders placed on the interior wall, visible externally and leading to no where in order to mislead raiders. This is especially helpful when countering clever, opportunistic raiders who get the bare minimun of 4-8 satchels and go to a base thinking they will at least get through the airlock. If you can persuade those people to waste their explosives on a wall, it blunts both their attack on your base as well as their progress overall. Many players will get the bare minimum, get into a base and then get what they need from the first raid to go on a second, etc., until they snowball. You can similarly misdirect enemy raiders and scouts by placing one or two small furnaces in a sealed room with a sleeping bag and optional Dropbox. Fill the furnace slots with stacks of wood and light at night if you know your base has already been discovered or is in a high traffic enemy. They will spend ten or more Satchels thinking that they will save explosives on a double airlock by blowing that wall and will feel silly when they find a sleeping bag and a furnace. They will feel more than silly if there are traps waiting for them.
  • If you’ve built in a cold region, consider building in water. Deep water prevents explosive detonations and gunfire. Shallow water makes a lot of noise and conceals spike floor traps well. Otherwise dark colored, unharvested crops can offer an alternative, land-based solution. Clones from crop plots make this effectively free. Any water where it’s cold will deal damage over time to unclothed or metal, PvP armored players.
  • Create empty 2x2x2’s nearby. Light wood filled furnaces in them if you want to make the area look more active than it really is. With metal double doors, shelving and four pin-coded large chests you can use these structures as temporary loot storage. Raiders will spend a fair bit of resources to exploderino these only to be rewarded with.. nothing.
  • Consider using rooms built on triangle foundations with at least one door frame. You can fit three small furnaces per triangle foundation tile. Raiders are unlikely to waste four Satchels to get into these rooms, even if they’re already in your base.
  • Plant lots of booby trapped crops, campfires or small storage boxes where ever you want a player to die or stand still while checking everything. Sepf-explanatory.
  • If you have an early opportunity to make drop boxes, consider making a doorless base by leveraging beds and sleeping bags, as it more than doubles the cost per tile.
  • Last but not least, if you’re solo, in a small group or are otherwise similarly resource constrained, build a base that is modular and extensible so it can grow as your needs change.


Spend some time as a naked acquiring basic BPs. When you find a nice server you want to play in, spend some time as a naked running to the nearest rad town, grabbing BP fragments, and researching and learning basic BPs before you die. Absolutely essential is the large box, which is especially important for solo players because of the lack of space inside small homes. Try and get some weapon BPs (crossbow is a great mid-level weapon), tool BPs (hatchet is nice but not necessary to have), armor BPs (it’s nice to have wood armor), and it’s always nice to have a few extra BPs for later game.


Don’t get into a stupid rock fight. There is no reason to fight when all you have is a rock and a torch. If someone tries to start one, just run away. Even if you win such a fight, you’ll take a few hits that’ll negatively effect your survivability.

Craft in this order: spear, spear, campfire, bow, arrows, stone hatchet, stone pickaxe. You need one spear to kill with, one spear to throw, a campfire to cook up meat and bring your health up, a bow and arrows to defend yourself, and stone tools to begin gathering resources.

Cannibalism is essential to survive the first 10 minutes. If you can find a body or a sleeping person, kill him and harvest the human meat. Getting your calories above 100 allows you to regenerate health quickly when near a fire and gives you an important advantage over all of the other Newmans in the area competing for the same resources. If you can find a pig to kill, this is preferable, but you’re more likely to run into people.

Place a sleeping bag with a hidden stash nearby. When you find an area you want to settle in, place a sleeping bag and a hidden small stash nearby. Any raw resources you gather for construction should be placed in the stash–so that if you die, you can respawn at your bag and you haven’t lost your resources.

Fight smart, then run. Never throw your last spear. Bone clubs are mostly rubbish. A bow gives you a fighting chance against anyone. Running is preferable to fighting in most cases. If you kill one guy, and a friend shows up, run or hide. Don’t be the one to start combat when you’re trying to get established.

Accept your inevitable mortality. On a server of any significant size and population, you are going to die several times before you manage to get established. Some of my best builds and experiences started with 5-10 deaths, often before I even had a spear. Getting up again and not getting discouraged is necessary for reliable success at Rust.


Trust no one. It’s a cliche, sure. But seriously. Rust’s culture is toxic–if someone sees you have something they want, or they just decide to end you, they’ll kill you mid-conversation. Don’t open doors for anyone and don’t let anyone influence your behavior just by talking.

Hide. There are plenty of bushes and rocks around. If you hear someone’s loud footfalls, stay crouched (which makes your movement silent). Try and take routes which don’t involve running through open fields. Stick close to potential cover and remember to keep your eyes open. When you are outside your base, you are vulnerable—don’t make yourself easy to see.

Listen. Hearing the tell-tale signs of other players is essential for surviving solo. A good headset is absolutely essential for playing Rust as well. I recommend the G933, which has 7.1 stereo and will let you hear gunshots, explosions, and footfalls reliably and directionally. This is a little detail which can make all the difference when you’re fighting, running, or hiding.

Carry bandages and medical supplies in your hotbar. Early game, carry bandages to stop bleeding. Later on, when you leave the house, carry bandages to stop bleeding and medical supplies to quickly recover from injuries and gunshots. Keep at least one of them in your hotbar at all times, so that you can quickly bandage to prevent bleeding.

Weapons. Experiment with different combinations of weapons until you find one that suits you. Before I have high-quality firearms, I like to carry a machete for melee, a pipe shotgun for close range combat/ambush, and a crossbow for range.

Combat. Combat should be quick and decisive, with no room for mercy or conversation. Crouchwalk to quietly close on your target. Once they know you’re there, use cover and never stop moving. Hit them with a ranged weapon, move in, and finish them with melee or a pipe shotgun. Don’t get into an extended gunfight and don’t follow them into an area with which you’re unfamiliar. If you’re sprinting after somebody, you’re just as likely to step in a hidden bear trap as you are to actually catch them.


Find an isolated peninsula or island far from large bases and rad towns. Even on the high population servers, there are plenty of isolated areas. Don’t settle in the shadow of a large tower. Settling near a rad town is probably not feasible on a server like Rustopia—better to keep some distance between you and rad towns.

Build into the side of a cliff overlooking water. Not only does that offer potential raiders one less side to breach, it also means that your base will be almost invisible to anyone who is not specifically looking for it. Use triangle foundations to maximize internal space–I like a nice six triangle hexagonal build with one square foundation on one side to serve as the airlock.

Always build the whole house out of twig first, then upgrade immediately. Make sure the design you want is doable in the space you have by building it with twig first–but always have the wood, stone, and metal to upgrade everything right away. Avoid upgrading before the whole house is complete so you don’t waste materials upgrading an unfeasible build.

Don’t leave the house until you have a code lock on the door. If you have a regular wooden lock on the door, and you are killed holding a key, you will very likely lose your house. If you absolutely must leave (for instance, to gather animal fat to build a furnace for metal), keep an extra lock in your house. If you are killed carrying a key, you can quickly swap out the compromised lock with the new one, rendering the key on your body useless.

Always have an airlock. Always build another locked door behind your front entrance, and make sure you have more than one way in and out of your base. Sleep in your airlock–if someone raids you, they won’t break into the airlock, they’ll bypass it. It’s also good to have at least one sleeping bag in an airlock for the same reason. NEVER open both doors of the airlock at the same time.

Learn to love wooden spikes, walls and traps. A few well placed wooden walls, right up against your outer wall add an extra layer of defense. Spikes and traps can deny potential raiders access to vulnerable walls or block routes of approach to your base.

Place sloped roof tiles with spikes beneath. Putting down wooden spikes on your ceiling and then placing the sloped roof tiles atop those adds an extra layer of protection on the top of your base, which is vulnerable since you’ve built into the side of the cliff. If anyone tries to walk around on your roof, they’ll get a foot full of spikes.

Build a backup location nearby. This can be as simple as a sleeping bag with a stash—you can even reuse your sleeping bag and stash you used early on. Another good idea is to take over a nearby house which has been abandoned—this saves you resources and gives you a backup location in case your main base is under siege or you lose it to a raid. You never want to wake up on the beach with no options for spawning near your base.


Make friends with neighbors, especially other solo players. It’s good to approach folks unarmed, perhaps with a torch, to have a nice conversation. Just establish who you are, and that you live nearby, and promise not to attack or rob one another. Making friends isn’t the same as trusting them–don’t ever give them codes, let them inside your base, or even tell them where you live if you don’t need to. You can usually tell very quickly whether a conversation is worth your time—and if not, you can start formulating plans for how to deal with your new dick of a neighbor.

Don’t allow revenge, anger, or frustration to influence you. You’re going to die and people are going to be dicks to you. If you are killed, don’t go charging back unless you think you have a real chance of getting your stuff back. If someone is mocking you outside your house, don’t open the doors for any reason. Don’t allow someone else’s foolishness to influence how you react to your environment or to threats. Don’t engage with trolls.

Maintain a Depression-era mentality. Resource management in Rust is paramount. Waste nothing. Even charcoal from a fire can be used to craft gunpowder, bones can be used for armor and weapons, and a t-shirt can provide enough protection to mean the difference between life and death. Have a sense of what you have, and what you don’t, because a glut can turn into a shortage very quickly. Have enough storage to hold on to everything.

Never leave the house with anything you are unwilling to lose. Some soldiers have a ritual where they mourn themselves before they go into battle, accepting that they will die so that if they return, it is a happy surprise. This ritual should be yours every time you leave home, and you should consider anything you carry as lost. If you’re going out to gather resources, go naked with a hatchet. If you’re going to raid, don’t take your only gun or armor you can’t craft.

If you obtain an item you can’t craft, immediately take it back to your house to research. If you manage to snag metal armor, a firearm, or some other impressive item from a downed enemy or from a raided house, immediately head home and stash it. If you can grab some BP frags and construct a research desk, you’ll be able to research and craft it, adding to your long-term survivability.

Do not attack people or break into houses near your main base. If you piss someone off, and they find out where you live, you could lose everything. If you want to go out raiding—killing folks and taking their stuff or breaking into houses—go somewhere else. Your reputation there can be awful as long as they don’t know where you live.

Be wary of following people. If you can’t kill someone right away, better to let them go than get into a chase. Most people who get attacked will instinctively run back toward their base—meaning that they might have friends. Likewise they may know the location of traps and try to lead you into them. If you’re going to follow someone, have a damn good reason.

Conan Exiles Tips and Tricks

Confirmed Tricks and Tips:

Cooking unappetizing fish or shellfish yields a 1:1 ratio of Ichor as a bi-product.

Putting fish in the fluid press gives Oil.

Dry Wood and Oil burn the longest in the furnace. Edit: It is better to avoid the dryer for turning regular wood into dry wood, there are many dead trees in the desert that will save you time as well as providing bark.

Coal in the fluid press yields Tar.

Highland Berries and Desert Berries in the Fluid Press yield juice that outperforms the water skins.

(Console) If you can’t find your dead body try coming out of render distance and then return after a bit to try again.

(Console) If stuck within a crashing loop, join single player for a moment before returning to your server.

Journey Steps and the suggestions MikeLaoShi and Stezor made in the replies are the fastest ways to level currently.

The lizards in the northern jungle by the rivers yield the most Volatile Glands used to make Demon Fire Orbs.

You can use Wooden Palisades to funnel creatures and boss creatures in order to obtain Skeleton Keys etc. Edit: See Kinobix’s reply in comments for extra info.

Skeleton Keys are used on Boss Chests in the world to obtain Legendary Weapons and Shields, but you must be level 60 to open them.

All Religions can be obtained by speaking to the priests around the map, no need to pay 50 feat points to unlock them.

You can learn some of the best Weapon, Tool, Armor recipes in the game without fighting the bosses in the dungeons. You just have to read the Tablets close to the boss.

To make Steel Bars you must cook Iron Bars in the Furnace with Steelfire made from the Cauldron. To make the Hardened Steel Bars just add Brimstone and cook it again.

To make Hardened Brick you must cook Brick with Stone Consolidant made from the Cauldron.

You can eat Ice from the north to raise your thirst meter.

Fish Traps must be slightly in water but not fully submerged to work. You can use Foundation in order to create shallow water in order to place them all over the water’s surface.

The Picks and Pickaxe are the only way to farm Bark from trees currently. Edit: The dry barren trees in the desert have a higher bark yield.

Make the Steel Scythe as early as possible to make farming bush materials way quicker and easier.

After tethering thralls to carry to the Wheel of Pain, do not swim or climb as this will break the connection to the thrall.

The Sandstorm Mask works for both the Sandstorm and for Noxious Gas areas/Orbs.

Gold can be aquired from near the Volcano by mining the Obsidian Ore and Silver can be obtained south of the city Sepermeru at the mine. Alternatively it can be found on NPCs or the sunken ship chests off the east coast of the jungle. Edit: Descent of Dagon in the Southern Jungle apparently has a high amount of Silver Ore as well.

To learn the Map Room (The fast travel room to the obelisks). You must talk to the Archiver in the Un-Named City at the northern section.

To effectively raid a base on a PvP server it is best to bring Demon Fire Orbs, Grease Orbs, and Gas Orbs. You can stack the Grease Orbs a total of 14 times on the base and light it on fire with a Fire Orb. Use a Grease Orb before the fire goes out to reset the burn timer or alternatively use a Gas Orb to end the fire but create an explosion.

A smart method for not having all your stuff stolen in PvP is to have multiple bases and have your stuff spread out and/or make chests and put them in cracks and openings around your base and cover them with foundations/walls while keeping in mind to blend it into your base design.

Put Seeds and Fiber into any cooking fire in order to make Gruel (The resource used to tame your captured Thralls).

Put Seeds and/or Plants into your Grinder in order to make Spice.

If someone is running from you in battle you can pull out your bow and shoot them in order to apply a stackable cripple effect, in order to get closer for the kill.

In PvP at least double door your base, the more airlocks you have the better, just don’t make so many that you hate going in and out of your base.

The Nordheimer NPCs such as the ones in New Asgarth give a good supply of steel bars, glass, etc. You can easily come out of there with a couple of stacks of Steel Bars after 15 to 30 minutes of looting.

When stacking boxes in your base make sure to lock them as well as upgrading the floor beneath them.

(Console) Face Paints are bugged currently; you will just have to skip over this one and find a list of Journey Steps online to see them.

(Opinion) Vitality is very important, try to get at least to the Passive Health Regen Perk, the regeneration it offers is strong enough to heal through Frostbite and even the damage you take while under Frostbite, same can also be said for Heatstroke. I would then consider Strength to get the perks for getting Thralls knocked out easier and extra damage to status affected enemies. Encumberance would be a close 3rd with the others being good as well. Accuracy is underwhelming at the moment, I’ve only have seen one decent bow build that includes the legendary bow.

Use climbing and swimming to your advantage when escaping enemies, most of them will forget about you this way and wander off. “NPC’s with bows will still shoot you.”

When you have corruption, you can fix this with either an Entertainer Thrall, The Bar where Conan is at (Sepermeru), or with the Tier 3 Mitra statue.

You can put Creature Heads into the fluid press to get a little bit of bone and blood.

If you are in a clan and build something, that building will be the property of the clan. If you were to leave you will not own it or be able to get into it anymore until invited back in.

(Console) Do not learn weapon and shield racks, they do not work yet.

Craft a Yellow Lotus Potion in the Cauldron to reset your attributes and feats. Yellow Lotus can be found in most areas (Oasis, The North, Jungle).

Demon Catlike Creatures in the South East Desert under the river near the temple give good early level demon blood. Devil Dog Creatures up in the volcano region and in parts of the south give a large amount as well, just bring a weapon with high Armor Penetration as they tend to be tanky.

To grow Lotus Seeds in the Planter you need “Potent Compost”, which you get through the Compost Heap. For one Potent Compost you need 2 Raw Ash (found when mining Obisidian in the Volcano), 2 Blood (Derketo Conversion through 2 Oil per 1 Blood and/or Heads in the Fluid Press) and 2 Compost.

You can get Salt by putting Crystals in the Grinder at a 2 to 1 conversion rate, though crystals should primarily be used to make Glass Orbs. Edit: Was informed that you can use Stone to make salt in the grinder as well.

Rhino Head Soup made in the stove raises your Encumberance by 3.

You can also raise your Encumberance by 5 by taming a Bearer Thrall and Unequiping his Backpack and putting it as your head slot.

An Alchemist Thrall is required at your Cauldron to make Demon Fire Orbs, Grease Orbs, and Gas Orbs.

More tips and tricks in a bit when I get some more time. Thank you and hope to add some nice tips and tricks from you all.

Conan Exiles Raiding Tips

From Kalapurna on Reddit in the post

Saving this because its super useful.

You want to raid them?

Spec 50 Encumbrance for unlimited carry weight.

Explosive Jar does about ~10,000 burst damage and some more in burning.

Also coating a surface in grease orbs and then launching a demon-fire orb at it will ignite the grease into a burning fire that will eat away at the building.

You can stack 12 grease orbs on a surface and then ignite it with 1 demon fire. That will burn the shit out of a Tier 1. Keep tossing another grease orb every ~25 seconds to keep the fire burning as needed.

You can also use gaseous orbs. When hit by a Demon-Fire orb they will explode. So you can coat with grease, toss a gaseous orb on top of it, and then throw the demon-fire grenade last and it will cause an explosion + an oil fire, then keep burning with grease as needed.

Use Right-Click when tossing orbs, as this will make them explode on contact. (Left Click they will bounce off walls)

Bring a repair hammer with you to see the damage you are doing.

To get 50 Encumbrance: Bearer’s Pack (+5), Light/Med chest, gloves, pants (1 each, +3), Silent Legion boots (+3) = +11

Rhino head soup drops off NPC’s up north irregularly, or you could try to make it (hard to, needs black rhino head), that gives another +3 for an hour, to +14.

That way you could hit 50 Encumbrance with 36.

From there I would recommend 30 Vitality for the passive regen and 30 agility for the reduced fall damage. I think the fall damage perk is broken/OP. you can jump off the Mountaineer trainer peak to the ground and survive easily, good for dodgy base raiding wall climbing/positioning.

Also 30 Agi gives you the no stamina when jumping perk, which is really good with max encumbrance, because if you bunny-hop, meaning chain jumps together, you will regenerate your stamina in the air, so you can effectively always be sprinting/keeping forward momentum going if you end up being chased or have to high tail it. You will outrun anyone who doesn’t have the feat.

The rest I usually dump to 15 Strength. That is +30% damage. Helps with dealing with thralls. Spears are best to use against them IMO.

If they have a vault inside, you can try to blow out the foundations underneath it. If it is placed directly on the ground, then lol gg.

ARK Survival Guide for Small Tribes

Copying this post that ownagedotnet made on reddit for future use. I want to credit him since I did not create this and am only archiving it because it is great advice.

your best bet is to find a hidden spot where you can build a few small bases, a couple flyer pens, and some hidden storage

you want to find an area that has 3-4 areas with dense tree cover, a deep water source nearby, and access to metal without needing to go by someone elses base

so you construct the base as follows:

  • build 3 separate buildings no where near each other
  • build each one as deep as possible into the trees
  • build the foundations as close to the trees as possible
  • keep them as small as possible: 2 1x2s and a 2×2 with a dino gate is usually good enough
  • keep your flyers inside the 2×2
  • keep all your forges, mortar and pestles, and smithy in a 1×2
  • keep your storage chests, preserving bins, and beds in the other 1×2
  • go down to the deep water nearby, place a few camp fires, a few cooking pots, and a few irrigation pipes with some large crop plots -swim under water and place 4-5 small storage boxes hidden inside the sea weed

now once you get this setup you need to play the game a certain way, basically with the intent of never being seen by another player until you are well equipped, and if you are spotted by another player you need to hope it is under 1 of 2 circumstances: 1) you are by the beach cooking food and potions or 2) you are out gathering resources

if you are spotted during either of these scenarios, your best solution is to do nothing; dont retaliate, dont chase them, dont shit talk in chat, just let them kill you and take the easy resources (whatever you were mining or whatever you were cooking)

once you are dead, random spawn and log off for a few hours, never respawn at your base right after an encounter and never go back to the area where you were attacked; if you were attacked on your beach while cooking food, then you need to setup a new cooking station on another beach

the next primary objective is to make sure people never find your base until you are equipped, tips to do this:

  • never light a fire at night, this includes camp fires, cooking pots, forges, and torches; just dont use them
  • spend as little time going to and from your base as possible
  • spend as little time outside of your base as possible (so land your flyer at the 2×2, run as fast as you can to the 1×2 for crafting, and stay inside while crafting)
  • never leave a dino outside
  • dont block any good resources with your base or build near enough to them that people can see your base while doing a metal run
  • dont setup plant species, spike walls, or turrets
  • store as little as possible in the 1×2 bases
  • keep valuable blueprints hidden in the underwater storage or a purlovia no where near any of your structures
  • when you are not at your base, move as many valuables as possible to the hidden underwater storage
  • before you log off, store everything you can in the hidden underwater storage, place a sleeping bag nearby in a bush, and drown yourself

these tips will guarantee a few things

  • you arent easy to spot at night
  • when you arent online or at your base, there is very little for the enemy to steal
  • you are really only vulnerable to attack while harvesting or crafting
  • they cant kidnap you while you are offline
  • they cant steal your loadout off your unconscious body
  • you will have a good idea whether your base was attacked each day when you login by checking the beds and the sleeping bag

follow this strategy until you are high enough level to craft auto turrets, have 16 auto turrets, and have a enough to produce a few metal structures (including the generator and cabling to connect them)

then you can assemble a 4×4 base with 4 turrets on the top with 4 2×2 turret towers nearby each with 4 turrets which should be adequate for your smaller tribe to operate out of and expand

however, dont expect to not be wiped, once you get the metal base up it will be a constant struggle against not getting wiped

you could essentially live and operate as a terrorist using the strategy i describe above forever without ever getting caught; i myself adopted it for 3 months after i got wiped, but eventually got bored

Eve Online: How to tackle People on Gates!

This is copied from a reddit post.

At 0 on a gate, if they don’t aggress, then you don’t aggress. If you aggress and get timer and they don’t then they can jump and you just have to wave goodbye. By this I mean RED box. Pilots will yellow box you to try to psych you out into engaging them so you get flagged and they have time to warp off on the other side. If they redbox you, tackle and orbit. Commence N+1.

Anyways, I’m no pro inty pilot, but for fun, let’s say they land at 0, you see gate flash, and you follow them through.

If they have NOT uncloaked:

  • Immediately reapproach the gate
  • Pre-overheat (shift left-click) your tackle (NOT webs) and MWD
  • Click your tackle modules to get pretargeting up, you should see the reticle following your mouse. (can do this for guns too if you have the time)
  • wait for them to decloak
  • Click them in the overview with your tackle mods pre-selected and you will begin targeting and will tackle as soon as target is locked, IF you are in range for your module when lock is acquired.
  • Approach (I hold Q and left click them in the OV, but click the button or use the radial or whatever works for you)
  • Turn on MWD (order is somewhat important, if you turn on MWD first your mass will bloom and you will be slower to align to them, not a huge deal in an inty but still worth keeping in mind)

If they HAVE uncloaked:

  • Immediately approach
  • Immediately start locking
  • Pre-overheat (shift left-click) and activate MWD
  • Pre-overhead (shift left-click) your tackle (NOT webs)
  • Click your tackle modules as soon as you acquire lock.

In either case, continue with:

  • Check that you got lock and your tackle landed
  • If you were out of tackle range when you got lock, then hit tackle again
  • Once scram/point has landed, add webs and dps to taste.
  • Orbit at ludicrous speed
  • Stay here forever (optionally, call your friends and have a party)

Some notes:

Reapproaching the gate just gives you a better chance of being at a closer range to them when they uncloak, as opposed to winding up on opposite sides of the gate. You don’t want to turn on MWD to do this though, as it will slow you down if you have to turn sharply to head to them.

About webs: Since you need to reach 75% of your max speed in order to warp, webs actually help align time by lowering max speed without affecting acceleration rate. If you apply webs (which have longer range than scram) before you land your scram or point (or if you’re out of range for scram but not web) then you are actually assisting your target in warping out rather than preventing it.

All in all, you want to get moving towards them as quickly as possible. Their ability to warp off before you get in tackle range is the only thing that can save them. If they’re already heading out as you load grid, then you want to head to them ASAP before you start with all the clicky of overheating and activating modules. If they’re not uncloaked, then you have some time to get set up, but you still want to head towards them at the earliest opportunity.

BONUS TIP: If they are potentially cloaky, then as soon as you click approach, press Ctrl-Alt-Space. This sets your ship at max speed and when they disappear you will keep heading in the direction of their ship rather than just stopping. It’ll give you a chance to decloak them this way if they were not fast enough to warp off, or are trying to pull off MWD+Cloak trick.

Complete Lich – Your Guide to Immortality and Beyond

Copied from in case the forum post ever goes away.

As an eternal fan of necromancy (get it? ahahaha *sigh*), I’ve always wanted to play as a Lich. But alas, it is far more difficult to convince one’s DM to let them take the template than to actually acquire it in the first place. And on that note it would seem the Demilich is beyond mortal gamer means… But I shall try to legitimize the dearly beloved, yet forsaken, template we call the Lich… Over time, I hope to establish this as a prime resource for pursuers of this often vague milestone in the art of necromancy.


A lich is a spellcaster of the necromantic persuasion who seeks to gain immortality and greater power through evil magics. By constructing and storing one’s soul within a phylactery via these dark rituals, that spellcaster can live forever as an undead creature. To qualify, it takes a spellcaster (not including spell-like abilities) of caster level 11 or higher, 120,000 gp, and 4,800 XP. This doesn’t include the various materials for the ritual.

The template comes at a +4 LA, however there is a 4-level template class available from Wizards of the Coast on their website. See the last link at the bottom of this guide for more information. With it, you may be able to bargain for access to lichdom.

So You Wanna be a Lich? Rites of the Lich:
Once the phylactery is completed, it must be placed on an altar to a death god which you must construct from black onyx (500 gp) in a process that takes 8 days. With all the etchings and enchantments done, requiring you to expend 6 hours and two whole levels of spell slots each day, you are ready to transfer your soul to the phylactery. With an evil outsider watching over (it is impossible for them to interfere, via the power of the ritual), you must sacrifice one of your race who is twice as young as you and another who is twice as old (to a max age of the maximum age for your race), as per the ritual. Their souls are consumed by the black onyx altar where you will slay yourself using your most potent necromancy spell. Your soul will travel through the black onyx into the phylactery where it will be activated, coming your passage into lichdom. The evil outsider is automatically dismissed to wherever they came from and the black onyx altar dissipates from the site. The altar becomes a tribute to the death god you dedicated it to, your name being engraved throughout it as your soul was channeled through it.

Who Can be a Lich?
Core Base Classes
Barbarian –
Bard 11
Cleric 11
Druid 11
Fighter –
Monk –
Paladin 11*
Paladin 14
Ranger 11*
Ranger 14
Rogue –
Sorcerer 11
Wizard 11

Fighter or Barbarian 6/Blackguard 7*
Monk or Rogue 8/Blackguard 7*
Monk or Rogue or Fighter or Barbarian 5/Assassin 7*
Wizard 3/Cleric 3/Mystic Theurge 8
Wizard 3/Cleric 3/Mystic Theurge 5* **

*with Practiced Spellcaster
**it would seem like W 3/C 3/MT 4 would qualify for the CL 11, but Practiced Spellcaster only allows a maximum caster level equal to your HD.

Notes: For Assassins, Blackguards, Mystic Theurges, and PrCs that a melee character could achieve to get spellcasting levels, the Practiced Spellcaster feat (Complete Arcane) will come in handy. This is also important to PrCs with unique spellcasting lists like Assassin or Blackguard.

Relative Phylactery Sizes
Due to the size difference between various species who partake in lichdom, a phylactery is usually build two size categories smaller than its creator (to a minimum of Fine). A Colossal+ creature would thus have a Gargantuan phylactery.

Phlactery Empathy
A lich can automatically sense if its phlactery is being attacked or has been destroyed. When a phlactery is destroyed, the lich feels a sensation of pain which stuns it for 1d4 rounds. As long as a phlactery does not move from where the lich put it, a lich can automatically sense exactly where it is (even if memory is altered or it somehow forgets). The lich receives +2 bonus to the CL and DC of divination spells centered on its phylactery.

Reforming from the Phylactery:
Since the MM is rather vague on this, allow me to offer up my own detailed outlook on this process.

Upon being destroyed, your perspective is shifted back to your phylactery while you await to be reformed in 1d10 days. Any effects are immediately terminated as your remains are reduced to inert ash. The energy of this fading form is used to fuel the regeneration of your new one. As your body reforms, you lack any control over it physically but your mind is allowed to think and plot. Here is an eight-day progression of your reformation. At times where you regenerate quicker, this timetable is accelerated.

While being reformed, you receive blindsight 5′ to detect any presences of living or unliving creatures (like with magic jar to see such presences and their strength). You may cast any touch spells or short range spells (limited to a range of 5′) you still have memorized through your form if they dare touch you. During this time, you cannot regain spent spells. You can communicate through telepathy but its range is limited to no more than 30′. Any other senses do not function until the process is complete.

Day 1: An amorphous blob of negative energy begins to slowly build up over the phylactery, much in the way that an oyster would create a pearl. For the most part, it offers no protection to your phylactery.

Day 2: The negative energy will begin to take the shape of your previous form.

Day 3: The blackened shell begins to solidify into inert flesh, much like a clone spell. The effect takes hold from the outside in.

Day 4: Bones begin to reform within the fleshy mass. The first traces of the most vital organs are coming back.

Day 5: Organs and bones are formed but unconnected as of yet.

Day 6: All organs and bones are set into place and connected. They are inert though, as you are an undead creature. The process of reformation begins to return you to the look you have previous to your undeath; this includes deformities and bodily marks (scars, birth marks, etc.).

Day 7: Hair and pigmentation have returned to normal. Nails begin to push out from the tips of your fingers. Fluids are created, but not circulated. Blood will coagulate by the time the process finishes.

Day 8-9: With your body intact, your soul begins to anchor itself back into your body. In effect, you are comatose.

Day 10: The process is complete. Your eyes snap open and you are now as you once were. As the final step, a blackened patch of negative energy remains over your ‘heart’ from Day 1. Through this hole drops your phylactery, which has acted as an impromptu heart throughout your regeneration. With the phlactery expelled, the hole is sealed and you are complete.

*You may delay the process of reforming to any amount of time between the original amount of days to the maximum amount of days.

Defense of the Soul
See the last sections of Complete Arcane: most of these defenses for your spellbook can be put to use on your phylactery (DM approval for some effects). A trapped phylactery isn’t triggered by its creator and they get always get a saving throw (even for ones that don’t allow for it; default to Fort or Will depending on the type of effect) with +4 bonus.

A phylactery can use the Will save of its creator, even if not within the vicinity of the lich. (It contains his/her soul, after all)

Symbols of spells and glyphwardsare good defenses, and are not triggered by the creator upon his/her respawn.

Destruction of a Phylactery
When you destroy a phylactery, you destroy the soul of the lich who crafted it. Without a soul, it cannot be brought back to life nor can it reform. A phylactery that is destroyed while it contains a soul is vaporized by the action of the soul being dispersed from it. Nothing can bring it back or fix it. If it is an inert phylactery that hasn’t been occupied yet, it only breaks as per the effect set upon it and can be repaired by a make whole spell of a CL equal to or greater than the CL of the crafter at the time it was made (unless it was destroyed beyond mundane means, such as a disintegrate spell, or left in a state where it make wholecannot fix it).

Dead Empathy
As a druid or ranger is in tune with the ways of animals, you may interact with undead.
Prerequisite: Empathy (Wild or otherwise) class ability, must have spoken with an undead creature and passed a successful Diplomacy check, Diplomacy 5 ranks, capable of casting a necromancy spell
You can improve the attitude of an intelligent Undead creature. This ability functions just like a Diplomacy check to improve the attitude of a person. You roll 1d20 and adds the class level of whichever class gave you the Empathy ability and your Charisma modifier to determine the dead empathy check result. The typical Undead creature has a starting attitude of hostile.
To use dead empathy, you and the Undead must be within 30 feet of one another under normal visibility conditions. Generally, influencing an Undead creature in this way takes 1 minute, but, as with influencing people, it might take more or less time.
You can also use this ability to influence an unintelligence Undead, but you take a 50% (minimum of 10) penalty on the check (reduce the outcome by 50%).
You receive a +4 circumstance bonus if you are Undead as well.

Deny Exception [Undead]
You are capable of warding off the additional effects of spells and abilities that are more effective against Undead a few times each day.
Prerequisite: Cha 13+, any amount of positive energy resistance
Special: You may be treated as a non-Undead creature for the purpose of spells that deal extra damage or effects specifically against undead (such as sunbeam and its destruction effect, or sunburst which normally deals 1d6 damage per caster level rather than the basic 6d6 damage). Positive energy, such as that of healing spells, still do damage (for example: heal will act as if you weren’t Undead, which performs healing but it will do positive damage thus hurting you still). This effect is instantaneous and can be used against a number of spells per day (automatically, at your choice) equal to your Charisma modifier. Spells that deal extra damage or apply different effects over a period of time are affected for the duration of the spell. This feat may also apply against a single use of a magical item working in the way previously described.

Dread Lord

Even the stoutest of creatures may fall victim to your fear inducing spells.
Prerequisite: Capable of casting/using three fear-inducing spells or abilities, caster level 13
Special: You can instill fear in the most fearless of creatures. When your fear-inducing spells or abilities are put against a creature immune to fear, they receive a +4 bonus to their saving throws. If the attempt succeeds, the creature suffers the fear effect but at one category lower (to a minimum of shaken). Creatures immune to fear as per their type traits or with Intelligence less than 2 are effected as normal (or with more HD than the spell allows to effect).
Normal: You cannot instill fear in a creature immune to fear.

Dread Lord of Legend [Epic]
Your fear spells can afflict more powerful creatures.
Prerequisite: Capable of casting/using ten fear-inducing spells or abilities, caster level 21, Dread Lord
Special: Double the maximum HD of creatures your fear spells/abilities can effect. Cause fear now effects creatures with 12 HD or less, rather than the normal 6 HD. You gain a +4 insight bonus to your spells’ DC.
Legion of Undeath
Through your training with necromancy, you can command even greater hordes of the undead.
Prerequisite: Charisma 18+, can cast animate dead, CL 11+
Special: You control 6 HD of undead per caster level with animate undead or spells that use this limit. (Or add +2 to your Charisma bonus for Dread Necromancers with Undead Mastery)
Normal: You control 4 HD of undead per caster level.

Counterturning [Undead]
Your undead power allows you to turn the tables on those who seek to turn or rebuke you.
Prerequisite: Charisma 16+, Turn resistance +4, Undead
Special: When being turned or rebuked by a creature of less than 3/4 your HD, you may make an opposed Charisma check. If successful, that creature suffers the effect of their turning or rebuking (including extra damage to undead or special effects due to your alignment). This ability can be used a number of times equal to your Charisma modifier per day.

Improved Negative Healing [Undead]
Your connection to the Negative Energy Plane has allowed you to open a greater connection to the plane through negative energy attacks and channel even more healing than normal.
Prerequisite: Undead, Heals from negative energy, Improved Toughness
Special: You heal 150% from negative energy.
Normal: You heal 100% from negative energy.

Courage-Killer Presence [Vile]
Your evil presence robs enemies of their hope and courage.
Prerequisite: Evil, HD 11+
Special: Enemies within 30′ of you do not gain the benefit of morale bonuses.

Presence of Anti-Sanctity [Vile]
Your vicious nature carries over even further into your presence, sapping divine assistance.
Prerequisite: Courage-Killer Presence, HD 15+
Special: Enemies within 30′ of you do not gain the benefit of sacred bonuses. Allies within 30′ do not suffer from sacred penalties.

Death Song [Undead]
As a performer of the dead, you know how to play specifically for your audience.
Prerequisite: Undead, Bardic Music ability
Special: Your bardic music abilities affect undead creatures for their full duration but affect living creatures for half that duration. If you have Requiem, you may choose to have either one take effect when you begin a bardic music effect.

Know Thyself
Prerequisite: Knowledge(see below) 5 ranks
Special: You gain a +4 circumstance bonus to Knowledge checks related to your type.
Type -> specific Knowledge skill
Constructs, dragons, magical beasts -> Arcana
Aberrations, oozes -> Dungeoneering
Humanoids -> Local
Animals, fey, giants, monstrous humanoids, plants -> Nature
Undead -> Religion
Outsiders, elementals -> The Planes

Dread Cavalier
You do not suffer the normal ride penalty (-2) for riding an undead creature.
Prerequisite: Ride 8 ranks, Mounted Combat
Special: You do no take the normal -2 penalty to Ride checks with an undead creature. Instead, your training gives you a +2 bonus instead and your flying mount’s maneuverability increases by one category (unless it is already average or better). If it is not a flying mount, add 10 feet to its fastest movement speed. (Mount refers to any creature you ride, specifically undead for this feat)

Greater Dread Cavalier
Your skill atop an undead mount continues to increase.
Prerequisite: Ride 11 ranks, Dread Cavalier
Special: Your flying mount’s maneuverability increases by another category (unless it is already good or better). If it is a ground mount, its fastest speed increases by 10 ft again.

Deadly Touch [Undead]
Getting in touch with your undead lich brethren, you may also make a evil-charged touch attack.
Prerequiste: Undead, Natural weapon
Special: When you successfully hit a living creature with your natural weapons, they must make a Will save (DC 12+Charisma modifier). If failed, half the damage becomes negative energy and all of the damage is treated as evil for the purpose of bypassing DR. This ability is optional.

Purveyor of Death [Undead]
Prequisite: Undead, Smite class ability
Special: Your smite ability becomes Smite Living, taking effect on creatures that are not undead, constructs, or oozes. You gain an extra use per day.

Unholy Toughness [Undead]
Your unholy power has granted you dark vigor.
Prerequisite: Undead, Evil alignment
Special: You gain an additional number of hitpoints equal to your Charisma modifier (minimum of 1) times your HD. (This feat has showed up in a lot of recent books but was never mentioned in Libris Mortis.)

Commander Among Dead [Undead]
It takes one to know one, and you put this to good use when deadling with undead comrades.
Prerequisite: Undead, Charisma 18+
Special: Your receive a +4 bonus to Charisma checks with fellow undead. Add +2 to your Leadership score for Undead Leadership.

Study of the Damned [Undead]
Your penchant for study in your undeath has led you to acquire vast training in the magic arts.
Prerequisite: Undead, spellcasting ability at 21+, CL 11+, three metamagic feats
Special: Treat your spellcasting ability as if it were four higher for the purpose of acquiring extra spells per day. You gain +4 to Knowledge checks when dealing with a school of magic of your choice and/or the undead.

Suture the Soulless
Your skill in healing allows you to repair the Undead physically, at least a little.
Prerequisite: Heal 10 ranks
Special: By succeeding on a DC 25 Heal check, you may spend a number of rounds equal to the HD of the Undead creature you wish to patch up in order to restore some of its hitpoints. When finished, the Undead creature has hitpoints to equal its Charisma bonus (to a min of +1 and a max of +4) times its HD (only if this number is greater than the previous amount).

Rekindle the Soul [Lich]
You may rebuild a phylactery, and repair your missing soul, when the rest have been destroyed.
Prerequisite: Lich template, CL 15+
Special: When your phylactery is destroyed, you may rebuild it using the souls of others and the ones who originally destroyed it. To do this, you must construct a new, empty phylactery as you normally would. Once it is completed, you must sacrifice one intelligent creature (Int 8+) for every caster level you have attained (including levels lost to draining effects). In addition to these offerings, you must also sacrifice the creature most directly responsible for the destruction of your last phylactery*. These souls work to rebuild your soul which had been destroyed along with the phylactery. It now takes you an additional day to reform yourself upon being killed (1d10+1 days, and so on). You only need to take this feat once, but can reuse it multiple times.

*If natural forces destroyed your phylactery, sacrifice an appropriate Elemental with at least as many HD as your own. If you are most responsible for the destruction of your phylactery, you must petition a death god (most likely Vecna) and complete a quest to be forgiven of your folly.

You Don’t Look So Good:
As your body begins to decay from its original look, it becomes easier to spot you as the undead scourge you are. The base DC is 12. A Heal check of half this DC (halving the modifiers as well) can identify your undead form by checking your pulse, vital organs, etc..

+1/day spent reforming in last reformation (max +8)
-3/full week after reformation (casting gentle repose or spells of similar effect negates the days of those effects from this modifier)

When using the Disguise skill, the DC is either the previous or the result of your Disguise check (whichever is higher) when a Spot check is being used. It is no use against a Heal check.

When using Disguise Self, add half the CL to the DC (a max of +10). Not effective against a Heal check.

When using Alter Self, add the CL to the DC of both the Spot and Heal checks.

Home is Where the Heart is… [Variant]
Polymorph Any Object, when cast upon a phylactery will allow you transform it into a heart. With this, you may perform a special ritual. A DC 30 Heal check will allow you to replace a living creature’s heart (of equal scale to your own heart; a Medium lich must cast a permanent spell to double the heart’s size for use in a Large creature). This creature becomes a Lichthrall, gaining this afflicted template (‘the lich’ refers to the lich who added this template). This template is also applied whenever a phylactery is within another creature (either by ingestion, surgery, etc). For DM variants such as the entire person is a phylactery, use the Lichthrall (as in the case of Professor Q in the first Harry Potter; Voldemort is, in effect, a lich with a slow recovery time).

A lich will respawn from its Lichthrall as it would from a phylactery (the Lichthrall is a phlactery, in effect). During this time, the thrall glimmers with dark energies and when the process is finished the lich parts from his thrall as a shadowy form that solidifies into itself (instantly). The lich will sort of look like its thrall, sharing a few minor physical traits (eye/hair color shifts slightly). In return, the Lichthrall acts and thinks more like its master.

When reforming the master, it takes a DC 25 (minus 1 day for everyday the respawning process has gone on) to realize that something is wrong with the Lichthrall. (as noted below, detecting the Lichthrall’s aura will show that there are two overlapping auras – one for the thrall and one for the lich, though they are the same in quality)

Lichthrall [template]
Alignment: Shifted to the lich’s alignment (influenced to act as the lich would)

Gains DR/magic and bludgeoning equal to half the lich’s HD.

Healed by negative energy.

Spell-like Abilities (Granted to Lich, used on Lichthrall only; no saves, no SR): At will – Greater Scrying, Detect Thoughts, Major Image (of lich, visible only to thrall),
Requires an opposed Int, Wis, or Cha roll, as chosen by the Lichthrall; if successful, lich cannot use any of these effects for an hour.

Channel the Master(Su): In mirrors, the thrall’s reflection is that of the lich. When any presence is sensed or its aura is being checked, it is exactly the same as the lich’s. When respawning the lich, anyone checking the thrall’s aura will notice there are two identical ones. The lich may use Cha-, Int-, or Wis-based skills via its thrall.

Familiar-like Traits: The lich may use most (at DM’s discretion) of the familiar-based spells such as transfering spells and spell-like abilities as per the appropriate spells. The Lichthrall as is affected by Share Spells, to a distance of 100 feet.

A lich can cast any ranged spell on its thrall from any distance (no saves or SR), so long as it is accepted willingly or the lich suceeds on an opposed check (see Spell-like Abilities section above for this check).

You Can‘t Take It With You
Being in the presence of its phlactery empowers a lich due to the dark powers that it channels. While there is a risk in keeping its phylactery close, sometimes it is needed. The reforming powers of the phylactery also aid in minor damage to the dark creature.

While within 30′ of its phylactery, a lich receives:

  • +2 bonus to caster level for necromancy spells
  • +2 DC to necromancy spells
  • +4 bonus to turn resistance
  • Fast healing 2
  • Resistance 10 against positive energy

Multiple Phylacteries
A truly evil lich obsessed with the goal of gaining immortality may wish to try and ensure its unlife. By creating multiple phylacteries,a lich can gain ‘extra’ lives. A lich will only reform at the oldest phylactery it has.

To craft an extra phylactery, the lich goes about the same process as creating another phylactery but the costs are increased by 10% for each phlyactery it has (it must have one to start with; making the first exta phylactery costs 10% extra, a second is 20%, a third is 30%, etc.). Every phylactery the lich has must be present when an extra is made. Extra phylacteries cannot be repaired by Rekindle the Soul, which only works when the lich has no phylacteries left. In addition to its cost, a phylactery requires a permanent sacrifice of one base ability point (there is no way around it).

Extra phylacteries are also affected by Phylactery Empathy (see above).

When making the transition to Demilich, you may spend 8 hours and expend all spells of your highest spell level to combine two of your extra phylacteries into a soul gem.

You must have at least one phylactery to make additional ones.

Soul Long and Goodbye
A lich is immune to all soul-based spells such as magic jar, imprison soul, trap the soul, etc. Its soul is within its phlactery and can only be affected if the magic is cast upon the phylactery. With multiple phylacteries, each one must have that fraction of the lich’s soul contained before the lich suffers the effects. If the soul is captured, the body dissolves and the phylactery is rendered inert until the soul is released. A lich and its phlactery has full immunity to magic jar and similar effects where a soul is switched because the intruder has not been prepared to enter a soul vessel. The unique link between the body and soul of a lich also renders it immune to the effect.

Putting one lich’s soul in another lich’s empty phylactery acts as a soul gem in trap the soul (regardless of HD). It is a soul vessel by design, allowing it to contain the lich, but it is not attuned to that specific one, so it acts as a soul gem to imprison it.

Tome of the Stilled Tongue (Complete Divine; pg. 103; 34,850 gp)
This book is of great value to the lich-to-be. It boosts caster levels, teaches spells, and looks great on a mantle. Sure, that +2 CL comes at the cost of Constitution, but you’ll be undead soon enough and that won’t matter. One of the most relevant features of this Vecna relic is that it “contains instructions for constructing a lich’s phylactery”. In effect, this reduces the XP requirements by 1/3 (after calculating the total price, in the case of extra phylacteries) whenever you create a phylactery with this book in hand.

Lich Variants

  • Basic Lich (Monster Manual)
  • Suel Lich (Dragon Magazine #339) A ghost-like incorporeal version of the lich, as developed by the people of Ancient Suel
  • Dracolich (Draconomicon) A draconic lich
  • Lichfiend (Libris Mortis) An outsider lich, usually a devil or demon
  • Good Lich (Libris Mortis) Turns undead, and can’t be turned. But can be rebuked/destroyed.
  • Demilich (Epic Level Handbook) An epic lich, very powerful and has eight soul gems (that function much like extra phylacteries)
  • Archlich (Monsters of Faerun)
  • Dry Lich (Sandstorm) A sort of mummy-like lich, where your organs are kept in special canopic jars instead of having a phylactery; the Walker in the Waste PrC allows you to become one, much like the Dread Necromancer works for the Basic Lich.
  • Banelich (Forgotten Realms) Powerful followers of Bane achieve this template.
  • Baelnorn (Forgotten Realms) A elf turned into a lich; not necessarily evil.
  • Illithilich (Basic Lich + Illithid) The race with alternative names galore, mind flayers can become illithilich (or alhoons) by taking the lich template.

Templates to Consider

  • Evolved Undead (Libris Mortis) While not a lich variant, this is something to consider for an old lich (as many of them are bound to be), boosts stats and gives fast healing as well as a spell-like ability
  • Spellstitched (Libris Mortis) Gain a bunch of spell-like abilities and some DR! It costs gp/exp to make an undead spellstitched but it might be worth it.

Gods to Worship (Core, Complete Divine, and Libris Mortis)
Of these gods, almost all the bases are covered for supporting a lich’s motives for achieving undeath whether it be for power, love, or a fascination with death.

** = the big three of necromancy

  • Vecna** (Evil, Knowledge, Madness, Magic) NE
    • A classic god of death and magic for the rather common necromancer; he is a lich himself. Followers of Vecna are more tactical and sly, keeping to the shadows.
  • Nerull** (Death, Evil, Pestilence, Trickery) NE
    • A more radical god of death for those who actively seek to bring ruin upon the living. There is a hatred of the living among his followers.
  • Wee Jas** (Death, Domination, Law, Magic, Mind) LN
    • The death goddess Wee Jas has an veneration to death and the funeral, with respect and structured training. Death is not necessarily an aspect of evil but a part of life.
  • Boccob (Knowledge, Magic, Mind, Oracle, Trickery) N
    • The god of magic and knowledge is appropriate for many liches who only seek eternal life to continue studying; would work will a Cloistered Cleric lich.
  • Afflux (Deathbound, Evil, Knowledge, Undeath) NE
    • A death god of knowledge like a combination of Boccob and Vecna. Favors torture to learn about a creature and unveil its secrets. Features two nifty domains as well.
  • Doresain (Chaos, Evil, Hunger) CE
    • King of the Ghouls; appeals to the consumers of life. Good for the sort of feral undead.
  • Evening Glory (Chaos, Charm, Good) N
    • More of a tragic, love continues in death, sort of appeal to this goddess. Love and passion beyond death are her biggest platforms.
  • Orcus (Chaos, Darkness, Death, Evil) CE
    • A demon prince similar in his policies to Nerull but even more chaotic and aggressive. His followers stage frequent attacks on the altars of rival gods. He seeks to further himself rather than his domains. More about causing death than undeath itself; he is not truly aligned to much a lich would care about that isn’t covered better by a different god, the only exception being lichfiends.

More Information for the Necromantically Inclined…